Friday, July 30, 2010

AGAINST THE GRAIN

Recently I decided to go back to the gym, when I say go back what I really mean is to go for the second-time! Admittedly I am one of the masses that post-New Year succumbs to the body’s guilty plea to get back into shape and join the local gym, and with great intention only ends up going twice - once to join, and the second as a friend’s request, as he did not wish to go it alone, plus I had been bragging that I had been attending throughout the year and was in fact quite familiar with the various machinery and programmes on offer. On this ‘second’ visit however to the changing room I discovered something that I had not known for all my male life, from mid-teens onwards anyway, that according to said pal I was shaving incorrectly!

Now I am a Gent that likes to sport an occasional beard, neatly trimmed I must add, very seldom is my face void of any facial hair, only at the wife’s bequest, or if there is a new baby in the house – which is why I was shaving in the first place so the wee fella did not have to suffer any irritation caused by daddy’s whiskers.

Shaving for me, and I assume for the majority of men, is a ritual that most men wish to get over with as quickly and as painlessly as possible, and with of course razor sharp results. “You’re going against the grain” I did not realise it but my pal was right, I was choosing the quickest route to the finish line and instead of going with the grain I was reversing over the same patch again and again, and expelling winces of pain which was unbeknownst to me. This got me thinking as I applied another wet tissue dot to my face – do I need the Dummies Guide to Shaving? Am I equipped to teach junior the peril and pitfalls of this glorious male tradition? - a craft passed down from father to son, but like many traditional skills, dying and replaced by hi-tech electric quick fix gadgetry or throw-away sleek disposables.

In my research and re-training I became once again enamoured with the art of shaving, I rediscovered tips and tracks that I can recall my own father telling me, to take your time, to give oneself that satisfying sweep of the cheek san bristle, with this in mind let me re-introduce you to steps to consider in wet razor shaving:

- As men we all have different styles in shaving so that is why it is also important to choose the right quality razor that suits your own style, preferably non-disposable. The right razor can stop razor bumps and help to prevent ingrown hairs, razor burn and skin nicks. Disposable razors are much harsher on your face as the quality of the blades used in disposable razors is not as good as in reusable ones.

- Shaving the minute you jump out of bed is a big no-no. Give yourself time to wake-up so you are more attentive on that first stroke of the blade. Some men find it more convenient to shave before going to bed, however this is fine for men who do not still wake up looking like Desperate Dan. And never shave cold.

- Shaving during (if you have a steam-free mirror) or immediately after a hot shower is recommended as the hot water opens the skins pores releasing any dirt and grime and relaxes the face muscles giving you an easier and more comfortable shave.

- Use a face wash or scrub before you shave to help open up the pores. This removes dirt, oil, and dead skin from your face and prevents debris getting between your skin and the razor. Dab your face with a soft towel but make sure your face is still moist.

- Choose the right shaving accompaniment. Apply a foam, gel, cream, oil or serum with either a brush (of badger-hair) or by massaging with your fingers. It is best to apply the shaving cream lather in a circular motion ending in an upward stroke. The upward stroke will stand your stubble up and away from your face making the shave even closer.
- Always shave with the grain. The grain is the direction the hair grows. Failure to do this is the major cause of razor burn.

- Begin with areas around the cheeks and neck and leave the chin and mouth until last, allowing them more time to soften from the hot water. When shaving it is best to begin with the sideburns, cheek, and neck. Use your free hand to hold the skin taut and flat and finish with the lip and chin areas.

- It is important not to press too hard. Glide the razor gently over the skin using light, short and gentle strokes, letting the razor do all the work.

- Rinse the blades regularly in hot water to prevent clogging.

- If you require a closer shave, it is important that you re-lather. Once you have re-lathered, shave against the grain or sideways across the grain.

- After shaving, splash the skin with cold water to finish. The cold water will cleanse the skin, and tighten the pores. It is very important that you pat and not rub the skin dry.

- In the event of nicks or cuts, apply a moistened styptic pencil to stop the bleeding.

- Apply a moisturising balm to restore moisture and nourish the skin.

- If you’re tempted to splash on a puddle of aftershave think of the kid in home alone screaming in the mirror, the high alcohol content in the aftershave has a drying & painful effect on your skin.

- Rinse the razor after each shave with hot water, shake dry and store upright. Blunt blades are one of the biggest causes of razor burn so make sure yours are showing no signs of distortion.

- Give your face an approving sweep of the hand to show that you are satisfied with a tradition well done.