Sunday, October 24, 2010

FACE FACTS

Today more and more men are realising the importance of men’s skincare. The male cosmetics market is growing at double the rate of the women’s category, according to AC Nielson data cited in L’Oréal’s 2010 Men’s Grooming Report.

Cunning pharmaceutical companies are now hiring our own home-grown stars to project images ranging from ‘a hurl and a hand-cream’ to a ‘rugby ball and razor’. Although the male grooming market is very much a lucrative one, there is still a high percentage of men who kamikaze straight into the men’s toiletries aisle ignorant of what actual skin type they are, thinking that ‘sensitive’ is a word that describes a girly personality which cannot be for them, and ‘combination’ is the man who is unsure which one he is, but covers his bets either way accepting he must be one or the other.

Knowing your own skin type is critical to ensuring you are using the most appropriate and effective cleanser, moisturiser, balm or scrub – sure, is it no wonder that the lads are prolonging their visits to the bathroom, now that we are speaking of various stages to obtaining male grooming perfection! You can rest assured that gone are the days of a bar of soap and splash of old spice (though I must confess to being more of a brut fan myself!) – You can thank Mr. Beckham for all this by the way!

A man's facial skin is different to a woman's in many different ways. Firstly ours is up to 30% thicker and contains a tighter network of fatty tissue. Secondly male skin ages more slowly than our female counterparts (yippee!) thanks to a richness in collagen. Thirdly, our skin also has higher water-binding properties which often makes it appear firmer and tauter making it less likely to wrinkle or dry out. Unfortunately, men's skin loses its firmness as we enter early middle-age, and the depth of our wrinkles around the eyes also increases significantly.

Herewith follows a lesson in the basic skincare types.

The commonest type of skin is naturally the normal kind, one that holds a combination of small and medium pores, is evenly textured; predominantly void of spots or blemishes, and look’s smooth and healthy. Thankfully there are plenty of cleansers available on the market for normal skin. If it happens that your t-zone is oily, a cleansing toner is recommended. When I refer to your ‘t-zone’, I refer to your forehead, nose and chin and not a fan club dedicated to A-Team! Follow a sensible skincare routine using a good quality facial wash every day and a scrub once or twice a week. Use a light-weight oil-free moisturiser that won't overload the skin at least once a day. Now that summer has finally arrived, a sunscreen with at-least SPF-15 is a must.

An oily complexion is one that has a tendency to be greasy with a shiny appearance, especially on the t-zone. Oily skin consists of larger more open pores that are prone to blackheads, spots and pimples. Though dull looking and patchy those fortunate enough to have oily skin can count themselves lucky in later life as the oil serves as a built in lubricant that can benefit your skin as you age. In cleansing take care not to dry oily skin with harsh products and avoid soap as it will disturb the skin's natural protective layer and make the problem worse, instead use a mild facial cleanser, exfoliate with a facial scrub two or three times a week and use a daily moisturiser that is water-based and oil-free. A clay mask used weekly, can also make a big difference. As the clay dries it absorbs the excess oil from the pores, along with dirt and dead skin cells. This helps to keep the pores clean. Over a period of time a clay mask will help to reduce the appearance of open pores as the blockages that make them appear larger are removed. An oil-free sunscreen is also recommended.

Does your skin feel tight after shaving or washing, with a dryness that can often lead to peeling and flaking? These are the characteristics of dry skin. To combat dry skin use a gentle creamy facial wash that won't dry the skin further, a facial scrub only once a week to remove dead cells - avoid rubbing too hard though. Consider too the monthly ritual of applying a face mask. The drier your skin, the more hydrating ingredients your moisturiser should contain. Apply the moisturiser when your face and body are still damp to lock in the moisture. Again, sun protection of at least factor 15 when you are out and about.

Sensitive types can react to many skincare products including certain fragrances, usually turning the skin red and blotchy. Be sure to patch test any new products on the inside of your wrist before using them on your face. Avoid soap and select products designed specifically for sensitive skin. Always protect sensitive skin from the sun even in cooler weather.

If you have combination skin you are certain to have two or more of the above skin types, e.g. oily areas are normally prevalent on your t-zone with dry patches occurring on the cheeks and sometimes along the forehead line. It is best to therefore sample different products on certain areas over a certain period monitoring the best results, but do try and source specific products for combination skin.

Discovering what skin type you have and the decisions you make afterwards with regard to choosing the correct products is crucial in determining your appearance in later life. No matter what skin type you have, it is however essential to clean your face twice every day, morning and evening. Cleansing products should be as chemical free as possible. Soap shouldn't be used on your face because it cleans with harsh ingredients and may strip your skin of natural oils resulting in your glands producing more oil, which will clog your pores.

Finally drinking plenty of water, eating a nutritious balanced diet and getting a little more shuteye are great natural alternatives to facial first aid. Remember men, showing tension on your face hardens your appearance so lighten up and smile a bit, this will visually soften the lines on your face, and of course need I mention that ‘stress’ accelerates the ageing process? Methinks a column in itself...